Walking through a maze of exposed brick tunnels,

eating fresh panner and haq,

lolling about in Mughal gardens under enormous chinars,

sipping on kahawa.

Rummaging through the art division of Kashmir University,

observing master craftsman in their studios,

walking on rickety floating pathways over dal lake,

reading about local politics at chai chacha's shop,

quieting as the symphony of prayers drift through the air, overlapping

to create a blanket of song lines.

Feeling the enormous silence under the skin of this troubled, wondrous valley...